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Tuesday, September 14, 2021

HDTV Antenna Hack

 

Mohu Leaf antennas are popular for their small size, reception, and ease of mounting, but what do you do about TV stations that are too far away?

Typically, that means that a bigger antenna is needed.  Sometimes a TV channel has great reception and yet other times, you try shifting the antenna a little bit or even moving the coax cable.  Maybe a new antenna would give better reception, but that can be a gamble since not all antennas provide the same performance.

You may remember the days when "rabbit ears" were on top of TVs or seen old photos of TVs with rabbit ear antennas.  Sometimes folks would put a little aluminum foil on the antenna to improve reception.

Well, you can do something similar with a Mohu Leaf antenna to improve reception but instead of attaching aluminum foil to the antenna, you make a reflector.

I scrounged around and found a piece of compressed cardboard that was just a little larger than my antenna. Corrugated plastic, or presentation board would also work since it just needs to be stiff.

I had a metal template for spreading solder paste that was no longer needed that was  just the right size.  My metal sheet was four inches wider than the antenna and close to the same height.  I centered the antenna on the metal and bent each side of the metal to a 45 degree angle or so.  

If you don't happen to have an unused metal soldering template laying around then you can use any thin metal, even heavy duty aluminum foil will work. If you use window screen material, make sure that it is actually metal. Do not use chicken wire since the large spaces offer less reflection area.  

After bending the metal, I used double-stick tape to secure the metal to the cardboard.  Next, I punched two screw holes through the metal and cardboard that aligned with the two holes on the antenna.  I guessed on the location of the third and fourth hole and just made sure that the would be under the opposite edge of the antenna.

The most important part of this antenna modification is the distance from the reflector to the antenna.  Two inches provided the best results for me.  Depending on the channels that are weakest in your area, you may want to adjust the distance slightly.  More distance will improve reception for lower frequencies while shorter distance will improve reception for higher frequencies.

I 3d printed two inch standoffs but you could just as easily use wooden dowel or other non-metal materials. For the area of the antenna with no screw holes, I created a standoff with a lip to hold the edge of the antenna.  Although it may be tempting, do not pierce the antenna!

This is the final result.  I put a sawtooth picture hanger through the cardboard to make it easy to hang the unit.  My final cost was zero since I used scraps that I already had.

So the real question is performance. Even if the mod was free, it's useless if there's no increase in performance.

I used a TiVo OTA unit to check the difference in antenna performance.  It's not scientific or even in decibels, but it will display antenna signal percentage, which we can compare. 

The weakest channel that I could receive measured 35% before the reflector and 60% after the reflector.  I can now reliably receive that channel without screen garbling randomly.

Every other channel showed an increase of at least 15% with the stronger channels increasing by 25%.  I used to loose some channels at night as their signal was weaker at night, but that is no longer an issue.

Even if you have to buy everything, it should be possible to make this reflector and improve your reception for only a few dollars.


Wednesday, September 1, 2021

Play the MacGyver theme when your 3d print ends


If you have owned a 3d printer for a while then you've probably already added code to beep the 3d printers speaker to notify you that your print has completed.  Otherwise, your stuck occasionally checking the print progress, which can become tiresome.

Why not play a favorite tune when your 3d print has completed?  Maybe a fanfare? Celebration?  "Flight of the Valkyries?"

With the tool at the following link, you can convert a midi file directly to GCODE that will output tones on your 3d printers speaker:  Midi to M300

The M300 GCODE command is used by 3d printers running Marlin firmware to generate sounds, tones.  Many 3d printers use the Marlin codebase so if your 3d printer has a speaker then you should be able to generate music.

The music will not sound like music from your smartphone might sound.  It actually sounds more like a Commodore VIC-20 could be playing the music but it is recognizable and guaranteed to arose curiosity from those not expecting it.

You can of course generate your own midi files like Lazy Game Reviewer (LGR) might, but there are also numerous midi songs available on the Internet.

Since I'm no musician but still am a fan of the original MacGyver show, I found the theme song in midi form and ran it through Midi to M300 and tried it on my printer.

It sounded terrible!

So I went back to Midi to M300 and unchecked boxes for some instruments and channels and tried again.  I had to repeat this several times before I got something that sounded good to my ears.  However, it was too lengthy.  I didn't need to hear the entire MacGyver theme at the end of a print, just enough to be recognizable and get my attention.

So I started trimming M300 lines from the generated code.  The final result has been shorted to around 30 seconds of time and contains the most recognizable parts of the tune.

If you'd like to just try this out on your 3d printer then install a copy of Pronterface and connect to your 3d printers USB port.  Some Creality printers now use the CH340 serial USB driver so you may need to install it to get Pronterface working with your printer - it does not autoinstall on Win10.

Copy the GCODE for the MacGyver theme below and save it using Notepad as a text file.  Change the extension of the file to MacGyver.GCODE.  After Pronterface is connected to your printer, Load the MacGyver.GCODE file in Pronterface.

Now press the Print button in Pronterface and your 3d printer should play the MacGyver theme.  If it is unsuccessful, and your certain that Printer face is connected, double check the MacGyver.GCODE file that you saved and make sure that it only contains the M300 GCODE lines shown below and nothing else.

To play the MacGyver theme at the end of a print, open up your printer configuration in Cura slicer and go to the "End G-code" under the Machine Settings for your printer and paste the following GCODE:

M300 P104 S523
M300 P104 S0
M300 P104 S523
M300 P104 S0
M300 P104 S523
M300 P104 S0
M300 P104 S523
M300 P104 S0
M300 P104 S523
M300 P104 S0
M300 P104 S523
M300 P104 S0
M300 P104 S523
M300 P104 S0
M300 P104 S523
M300 P104 S0
M300 P208 S494
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S196
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S370
M300 P208 S440
M300 P208 S196
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S196
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S523
M300 P208 S523
M300 P208 S196
M300 P208 S494
M300 P208 S196
M300 P208 S523
M300 P208 S494
M300 P208 S440
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S330
M300 P208 S659
M300 P208 S330
M300 P208 S440
M300 P208 S262
M300 P208 S131
M300 P208 S262
M300 P208 S523
M300 P208 S523
M300 P208 S147
M300 P208 S494
M300 P208 S196
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S196
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S370
M300 P208 S440
M300 P208 S196
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S196
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S196
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S523
M300 P208 S523
M300 P208 S196
M300 P208 S494
M300 P208 S196
M300 P208 S523
M300 P208 S494
M300 P208 S440
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S330
M300 P208 S659
M300 P208 S330
M300 P208 S440
M300 P208 S262
M300 P208 S131
M300 P208 S262
M300 P208 S494
M300 P208 S247
M300 P208 S123
M300 P208 S247
M300 P208 S523
M300 P208 S494
M300 P208 S440
M300 P208 S523
M300 P208 S185
M300 P208 S494
M300 P208 S440
M300 P208 S587
M300 P208 S123
M300 P208 S523
M300 P208 S494
M300 P208 S587
M300 P208 S123
M300 P208 S523
M300 P208 S494
M300 P208 S659
M300 P208 S131
M300 P208 S587
M300 P208 S659
M300 P208 S740
M300 P208 S185
M300 P208 S494
M300 P208 S123
M300 P208 S784
M300 P208 S165
M300 P208 S330
M300 P208 S740
M300 P208 S311
M300 P208 S698
M300 P208 S294
M300 P208 S494
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S784
M300 P208 S659
M300 P208 S494
M300 P208 S740
M300 P208 S587
M300 P208 S440
M300 P208 S659
M300 P208 S523
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S587
M300 P208 S494
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S523
M300 P208 S330
M300 P208 S494
M300 P208 S294
M300 P208 S523
M300 P208 S494
M300 P208 S440
M300 P208 S392
M300 P417 S466
M300 P417 S440
M300 P208 S784
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S587
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S622
M300 P208 S311
M300 P208 S466
M300 P208 S440
M300 P208 S392
M300 P208 S196
M300 P208 S294
M300 P208 S196
M300 P208 S311
M300 P208 S196
M300 P208 S233
M300 P208 S220
M300 P208 S587
M300 P208 S587
M300 P208 S587
M300 P208 S587
M300 P208 S587
M300 P208 S587
M300 P208 S587

Wednesday, August 25, 2021

Make your 3d printer play music - "How It's Made"


 I found a midi file of the intro music from the TV show, "How It's Made" and found an online midi to GCODE converter.  Perfect!  

If you want your 3d printer to start playing the "How It's Made" tune through the printers speaker when starting a print then add this GCODE to the end of your printers start code:

;How its Made tune  

M300 P103 S123
M300 P635 S0
M300 P117 S123
M300 P337 S0
M300 P137 S123
M300 P190 S0
M300 P107 S123
M300 P249 S0
M300 P166 S110
M300 P1724 S0
M300 P93 S156
M300 P620 S0
M300 P93 S156
M300 P347 S0
M300 P156 S156
M300 P200 S0
M300 P117 S156
M300 P234 S0
M300 P107 S165
M300 P1299 S0
M300 P464 S185
M300 P5 S311
M300 P103 S123
M300 P371 S0
M300 P210 S311
M300 P34 S0
M300 P20 S370
M300 P117 S123
M300 P293 S0
M300 P44 S277
M300 P137 S123
M300 P190 S0
M300 P127 S123
M300 P200 S311
M300 P29 S0
M300 P166 S110
M300 P68 S0
M300 P132 S311
M300 P337 S0
M300 P117 S311
M300 P117 S0
M300 P117 S370
M300 P352 S0
M300 P176 S277
M300 P288 S0
M300 P20 S311
M300 P93 S156
M300 P366 S0
M300 P210 S311
M300 P34 S0
M300 P10 S370
M300 P93 S156
M300 P327 S0
M300 P20 S277
M300 P156 S156
M300 P200 S0
M300 P122 S156
M300 P200 S311
M300 P29 S0
M300 P107 S165
M300 P127 S0
M300 P132 S311
M300 P337 S0
M300 P117 S311
M300 P117 S0
M300 P117 S370
M300 P352 S0
M300 P176 S440
M300 P59 S0
M300 P176 S494
M300 P54 S0
M300 P5 S622
M300 P103 S123
M300 P371 S0
M300 P210 S622
M300 P34 S0
M300 P20 S740
M300 P117 S123
M300 P293 S0
M300 P44 S554
M300 P137 S123
M300 P190 S0
M300 P127 S123
M300 P200 S622
M300 P29 S0
M300 P166 S110
M300 P68 S0
M300 P132 S622
M300 P337 S0
M300 P117 S622
M300 P117 S0
M300 P117 S740
M300 P352 S0
M300 P176 S554
M300 P288 S0
M300 P20 S622
M300 P93 S156
M300 P366 S0
M300 P210 S622
M300 P34 S0
M300 P10 S740
M300 P93 S156
M300 P327 S0
M300 P20 S554
M300 P156 S156
M300 P200 S0
M300 P122 S156
M300 P200 S622
M300 P29 S0
M300 P107 S165
M300 P127 S0
M300 P132 S622
M300 P337 S0
M300 P117 S622
M300 P117 S0
M300 P117 S740
M300 P352 S0
M300 P176 S880
M300 P59 S0
M300 P176 S988

Monday, November 18, 2019

Setting up a new Creality Ender 3 Pro 3d Printer

     I have caught the 3d printing bug.  However, I did not want to spend a lot of money on something right away.  Besides, as my wife says, "I am thrifty."
      I bought the Creality Ender 3 Pro because I had read about the few improvements included in the pro version that were not in the standard version.  First is the magnetic bed, I'm not sure if it justifies the $40 price premium, but the 1 year warranty and support and the improved extruder does justify the price premium for me.
       The first bit of advice that I could offer in setting up the Creality Ender 3 Pro is to first use the foldout manual to identify everything and lay it out and then put the foldout manual away.  It can be followed by a person determined to interpret the images, as I was, or a person ignorant of the build video that comes with the unit on the micro SD card.  Plug in the micro SD card adapter and watch the build video.  It is much easier to follow than the multifold manual.
      After finishing the build I was unable to level the bed. the left side was lower than the right by almost 1/3 of an inch!  I took the bed off to see if the bed frame below was that far off from level.  It was!  Argh!
     So I examined the bed frame closely and concluded that it had to be the X-axis bar carrying the printer head that was not level.  I was correct.
     In my mind, if you have rollers riding a frame and the holes are aligned then the parts must have been created to be square to each other.  This is not true.  BTW, I'm an electronics and IT guy not a mechanical engineer as should be evidenced by that last statement.
     I watched a few setup videos, there's nothing about this issue from Creality BTW, and I learned about the concentric nuts.  Concentric nuts on the Creality Ender 3 printers are used to move specific rollers a range of about +- 1/8 of an inch.  They function similarly to a cam on a camshaft.
     I moved the X-axis to the top and measured each side to check for square.  It was off by 1/3 of an inch.
     I tried adjusting the concentric nuts on each side of the X-axis.  I had to loosen the lock-down nuts a little of course, which I almost forgot to do.  I never did get the X-axis square.  Every adjustment resulted in either the X-axis being loose or much too snug to move. I finally compromised with being 4 mm from square with the assumption that the bed could be levelled to that.
     As I began levelling the bed, I noticed that one corner of the bed was higher than the rest, even completely cranked down.  I examined the bed mounting again and noticed that the spring with the bed connector mount was compressed more than the others.  That bed connector mount compressed the that corner spring about 1/8 of an inch.  No wonder the one corner was higher than the rest and the other 3 corners felt weak and wobbly.
     I added spacers to each of the other 3 bed corners to match the corner with the bed connector mount.  Now I could finally align the bed!  I adjusted each corner to be just 1/2 millimeter from the bed and at last I was ready to print!
     The print for the cat model ran for 5 hours and 43 minutes. The top of his head was cut off just below the ears.  The filament that came with the printer, which is not on a spool, had tangled and had not fed through the printer for the last 10% of the print.
     To make the best of it, I sanded the hole in the top of the cats head and used the resultant container as a toothpick holder.
     I retried the cat model print out after untangling the filament and stringing it out like a telegraph wire - I really did not want to hand my wife another cat with the top of his head cut off.  The print went well and the quality is actually impressive.
     I must admit that I thought that 3d printing was finally ready for the average person because it is so affordable now.  The pre-built models offer less frustration certainly but if anything needs to be replaced or becomes misaligned then it could become frustrating for the non-hobbyist.
     Some day 3d printing will be as easy as using a toaster and as cheap as an inkjet printer and as maintenance free.  It's too bad that we still have years before we reach that point.

Sunday, October 22, 2017

Atari 2600 Pacman on my RetroPi Project

Photo of my latest side project - a RaspberryPi running RetroPie enclosed in an old Atari 2600 Pacman cartridge. 

I modified the cartridge to fit the RaspberryPi and printed a 2600 cartridge label using http://www.labelmaker2600.com.  After laser color printing the label to some Avery label paper, I used packaging tape to laminate the labels - I got the idea from one of "the 8 bit guy" videos.

After cutting and attaching the labels, I turned on the RetroPie and tried out Atari 2600 Pacman - it is worse than I remembered.



I tried out Vice, which is the Commodore emulator, and ran the Vic20 emulator.  I wasn't able to get any cartridges to run, but it was nice to see what felt like my old Vic20 of 37 years ago.

I went back to the Atari emulator and ran Asteroids.  What a load of fun to trek down memory lane!  RetroPie offers emulators for PlayStation, Amiga, and so much more.  I will get to them eventually.

It's nice to be able to play my old Amiga games and PlayStation games again.

Sunday, January 29, 2017

My Least Favorite Computer

When William Shattner started doing Commodore Vic20 commercials, I found that I just had to have a Vic20.  It had nothing to do with Captain Kirk of course, but those comparison commercials wherein the Vic20 features were compared to other computers was very convincing to this 14 year old.
I saved every penny from my paper route and got $350 to buy the "Wonder computer of the 80's".  I got the tape deck unit with the Vic20 and a few books and progs.  Without the tape deck, it would have been little better than a gaming console.
Fast forward through the 80's and my intense love of playing and creating games continued.  The Commodore 64 was purchased by my wife and I and we used it to create college reports.  My first good paying job I got an used Amiga1000.  It was a wonderfully frustrating machine as any changes to it were expensive.  Besides, the IBM PC era for the home had finally arrived. 
We sold the Amiga and bought an Amstrad PC-20.  It was affordable, had EGA video and sound and two floppy drives - no hard drive.  It did not run Windows but included GEM which is similar to the black and white Apple Macintosh OS.
Improving on the machine meant opening the flip top and plugging in ISA PC cards.  There were only 2 slots.  Oh yeah, and the lid did not close after a card was plugged in.
It was a strange PC and we didn't have it long before buying a full IBM PC compatible with memory, VGA graphics, Soundblaster, a CD reader and all.  Overall, I've enjoyed every computer that I've ever owned - except the Amstrad PC-20.

Sunday, December 21, 2014

My Android Apps Privacy Policy

Some Android app repositories have changed their submission process to require a privacy policy.  This post is in response to those requests and to address concerns of some users.

I create Android games and other programs as a hobby.  As a result, I have no interest in collecting personal information and using it.  My interest is in game creation and development.  There is a great deal of responsibility involved in managing personal data.  

I use third-party libraries in my games to provide social interaction.  Google Play Services is currently used in most of my games, and Swarm is still used in at least one older game and thus examination of their respective privacy policies may be beneficial.  

Most of my games have location sensing flags set to support targeted advertising - this is a requirement by many advertisers.   To those that enjoy my software creations, thank you, and rest assured that I do not collect personal data and currently have no use for it.